The peppery pizza burned my tongue, and the tobacco smoke in the restaurant was unbearable. But I was happy after a brisk spring day taking the local buses across the Hungarian plain from Debrecen to Okoritofulpos, and a half mile walk to a short silent street of houses and fields called Rapolt. Here had been the shtetl where grandma Shoshanna, whom I had only met in dream, was born.
I felt certain that nothing remained from 1910. I had no language except an exchange of smiles with a tiny round woman, scarf and overalls and wrinkles, who emerged from her small house. There was time to walk to the large wild field and sing and lay offerings, and to sit at the side of the road, and then to walk back to the bus stop in the direction that Shoshanna had taken, westward, so many years ago.
The next day I sat quietly at the train station at Zahony, waiting to cross the border into the Ukraine. Four linked box cars without windows rolled to a stop, and were immediately assaulted by dozens of tiny round women stuffing huge boxes of paper goods into the cars. A tall man crammed ten mountain bikes into one corner. Yelling and pushing, teenagers built stacks of electronic goods along the walls and promptly sat on them. I found a narrow space next to the bikes and noticed that the man had a roll of $100 bills. I gave him a postcard, a view of San Francisco from the green flanks of Mt. Tamalpais, and told him this is where mountain bikes were born.
Less than 20 minutes later the train stopped and emptied in what was once the Soviet Union. With my passport I was escorted around the crowd to a border officer who was venomous but found no reason not to let me go. Sergei was the taxi driver and suddenly we were in his five speed Opel hurtling across the old roads, negotiating a fare in Spanish and smoking Ukrainian cigarettes while drag queen RuPaul’s disco hit “Raining Men” blasted out of his only cassette tape. The sun was setting deep red through the rear window.
I had a room in the fanciest hotel in Uzgorhod, where a guitarist played John Lennon’s “Imagine” and “Woman” during my dinner alone, and later at the elevator a woman in black stockings asked me if I liked the girls.
Sergei did not know why I was there until the next day when he drove me into the snowy hills to a lovely small city, Khust, and pulled into the parking lot of the high school to find the local English teacher. Olga rode with us and translated to him that my grandfather Sandor Klein and great-grandmother Penina Weissfeld had lived there. He took us to see Mr. Klein on Gorky Street, who graciously offered us coffee but had no memory of my ancestors. His mother had died not long ago; perhaps she would have remembered.
We drove to the small synagogue, its painted ceiling still gorgeous, where Mr. Hoffman gave me three old prayer books; the Jewish population there is aging and dwindling. Then he too bundled into the taxi for the ride to the cemetery. Surely Penina was resting here, but we could not find her stone in the snow. The tombs of four rabbis were enclosed in a small building and, like the Hasidim who had recently visited, I lit candles and left a prayer on a scrap of paper. But the prayer had already come true.